Transplant Roses with Care
Q. When the best time to transplant roses from one bed to another, and how do I go about it? I want to build a new deck and I want to graft my roses without damaging them.
A. The best time to transplant roses is when they are dormant – not actively growing – as in the winter, both in late October or early November. Many rosarians transplant roses at certain times of the year, although probably not in December or January. If you transplant in the early to mid-spring, the rose bushes is practically abandoned and shock your plants because it is less than at the other. You also have the advantage of being able to reduce the real and the check to clear the disease, such as crown gall, root gall, or cancer. Next, you will have a gradual warming weather in front of you and the season of growth for forest regeneration.
If you transplant in the fall, time is very important, in so much as the weather in the Tri-state area is very unpredictable. You should choose a day where the soil is still warm enough for the newly transplanted the bush to rebuild itself before winter arrives. If you wait too long, you risk losing crops to freeze nearly to death.
Set up your new bed according to proper planting techniques. Digging a big hole to accommodate your plant – more than you think necessary. Realize that you have a clump of land, together with the roots of bare root plants. In order to make digging easier and to keep the family intact, you may want to drown the plant two days before digging. Build a small mound in the middle of the hole for a plant. This helps to prevent air bags.
Choose a mild day, calm and cloudy, if possible, when rain is expected. With spades, cut a circle around the plant to be moved. Take a large root / soil ball as you can comfortably lift. Dig faster, lifting and sometimes probe to determine whether mobile or shrubs where roots may be anchored. Pick up the root ball and take along as much land as possible so the root system of the least disturbed. Put this in wood or jute or in carts.
Check the plants quickly to disease, and close. Be careful not to be exposed, fine feeder roots of white into the air, sun or wind. Now proceed to the dug out where the newly completed check on the new page, the roots spread out and pointing the open and show the roots.
Mix in 1 / 2 to one cup of bone meal and Mag-Amp around the root system. Super phosphate can be used in place of or in addition to eating away the bone, but the root. Make sure you check your set a little higher than before, because it will finish 1-3 inches. Companies should therefore flowers one to two inches above the ground. Sprinkle and fill the whole in the ground around the root system is completed. Let the water pour in to solve the root of the bond with the land, and carefully press a little on the plants to help remove the air bags.
Now cut out the weak, thin, and the growth of stems that grow into the center of shrubs, leaving 3-5 good, strong stick. It must be at least the size of your index finger and not thinner than a pencil. Scissors at an angle of 45 degrees and cut to the point where you look right in the middle of the white pith of sugar cane. If you see a bud appears, cut into 1 / 8 inch on this. This should be facing outwards cane. After planting and pruning, is recommended to spray against fungus.
At least, the close association with the land for melestarikannya shoots from drying. To check the rest of the land covered by a cone or a rose or a white plastic bag, the stronger plastics, better. Keep the plant closed for 7-10 days and check regularly for dryness. Above all, remain wet. Research has shown that this is the main factor that guarantees success in planting.
Revealing the check in the day, warm dark at night, when there was no wind. If rain is expected, this is ideal. Check to see if a healthy and green wood. Over the next few days, clearing the land with the flow of water from the hose, being careful not to decide any new shoots.